Sewing in 2012 - looking forward.

 ~ Jamie and Sophie - both loving Christmas ~

As life calms down after the Christmas/New Years celebrations and begins to return to normal, I wanted to take a few minutes to record my goals for the year ahead. I don't want to assign numbers to the amount of clothes/ quilts/ gifts I will make this year. Instead I want to set goals based on actions and aspirations, without strict time limits.

For the blog
> A series of posts on using your overlocker/serger. I want to share with you some tips I have learn along the way and different features your overlocker/serger may have.
> Quilting!!! I believe I seriously neglected quilting in 2011 on this blog, so I will get more posts up on 'all things quilty'. Who knows, I might even convince a few of you dressmakers out there to give quilting a try :-)
> How-to's. I have a few how-to's in mind for the blog this year.
> Giveaways. Items other than dressmaking patterns!
> Post more projects. I find I neglect to post about my projects until they are finished. I think this takes away a little from those who read this blog and are learning to sew or are interested in the process of sewing up a pattern. I will try and get better at posting along the way.
> More outdoor photography of my finished garments. We now live less than 500 meters from the ocean, so I should be taking advantage of this amazing backdrop.
> Book reviews. I have a number of books I have purchased that I would love to share with you all.
> Some more Etsy favourite posts.

For myself
> I want to organise my sewing room and fabric stash better. This will take time and thought but I really really need a better system.
> Balance my sewing and quilting time. I feel that I have been spending far more time sewing these days than quilting, and this has to change. I have a number of quilting UFO's waiting for some attention, and they simply are not getting it from me. Need to change this.
> I want to make more clothes using Liberty of London fabrics (don't we all?).
> I want to learn how to use my French Curve ruler... anyone have one of these and use them???
> Knit a scarf for winter this year using good quality wool. Does anyone have any tips where to buy good wool online?
> Make a baby quilt for a friend who is due in June.
> More Skype craft days with friends afar.
> I want to expand my 'cooler weather' wardrobe. I find that living in the climate I do in Australia, that winter for us only gets really cold for less than two months of the year. My winter wardrobe basically consists of jeans (4 pairs) and cardigans (10 of these). I only own three long sleeve shirts! I basically get by on very little in winter, and it can often feel unstylish and repetitive (seriously, how many ways can I wear my cardigans and jeans?). So I would love to make a coat this year, and some pencil skirts that can be teamed with tights.

~ Fireworks on the harbour ~

Before I embark on my 2012 sewing adventure, I just want to take a moment to thank you all for your encouraging comments and emails this year. I love the online sewing community that we are all a part of, and cannot thank you all enough for the feedback I receive through my blog and Burdastyle. As someone who does not have many sewers in their life, I find our online community invaluable. I learn so much from reading other peoples blogs (I need to comment more and share the love), learning from my own mistakes and the successes and challenges of other bloggers. All the knowledge, projects, and ideas that are shared online are inspiring and encourage me to continue to sew. 

As I am sure sewing is for a lot of you, sewing for me is a form of relaxation, a way to escape from the stresses of my everyday life, to focus my energy and thoughts on something other than the demands of my job, relationships, and life worries. The thrill of creating something from a pile of fabric and some thread, for me, cannot be matched.

I hope that in 2012 I can encourage others to pick up a needle and thread and 'give it a go' or tackle a more difficult project. You might find that you like it. :-)

I can't wait to share 2012 with you all. Happy New Year!

Sam xox

Sewing in 2011 - looking back.

As the year draws to a close, naturally our minds begin to run wild with sewing goals for the year ahead. I know mine is. Thoughts flashing through my head of scalloped edges, Colette patterns, vintage fabrics and lace detail. I must make an effort this week to write it all done (note-to-self, reread Emma's New Years Resolutions post)! I have already read some inspiring 2011 review posts this week by fellow seamstresses Gina and Lauran. I am sure many more will appear in the blogosphere before this week ends.

Here is my sewing recap for the year past...

Skirts and Dresses

Walk Away Dress - Butterick 6015

One Pattern - Seven Bloggers Dress

Simplicity 4310 Dress

Vogue 8184 Dress

Pillowcase Skirt

Simplicity 2656 Skirt

Tops

Sorbetto Top

Simplicity 1430 Blouse

Pendrell Blouse #1

Pendrell Blouse #2

Undergarments

French Knickers

Madeline Mini Bloomers

Casey's 1920's Chemise

Quilts

Pinwheel baby play mat quilt

Retro quilt

Other

Nested Bibs

McCalls 5861 Bikini

Brooch Board

Pin Cushion

Eighteen creations isn't half bad! Considering I went into sewing hibernation for many weeks pre and post house move, and have basically dedicated December to Christmas craft, I am surprised I have sewed this many things.

Highlights for me this year have been:

* Having my Pendrell blouse featured by Tasia on her blog! I was thrilled that the woman who designed the pattern liked my creation!

* Joining a sewing class.

* A new sewing machine and overlocker/serger (Christmas gift).

* Making a number of handmade Christmas gifts this year.

* Learning to machine quilt on my new machine (very basically though).

* Collaborating with Marie, Reana, Kat, Rachel, Jen and Amy on One Pattern - Seven Bloggers.

* Making a cake for my Grandparents 50th wedding anniversary - complete with royal icing!

* Teaching Sarah how to sew.

* Adding to my collection of vintage patterns.

* The new addition to our feline family.

* Moving house and building a veggie garden.

My final goal for 2011 is to get my sewing room in order (does anyone else feel like they are constantly battling their sewing room/space? I do, doesn't seem to matter how big or small it is, somehow it never feels like it is in order).

Sam xox

Handmade Liberty pin cushion.

Made from Liberty of London 'Wiltshire' fabric.

14 x 1" hexagon cardboard templates.

English paper piecing method.

Hand stitched together.

A little Christmas gift for me.

Sam xox

If you want to learn how to sew with the English paper piecing method, this video demonstrates it well.

My new sewing machine!

I was a super lucky girl this birthday! For my other gift Jamie gave me a brand new sewing machine! Good bye 13 year old machine from the 90's, with your 10 different stitches and very difficult button hole stitch. Hello brand new Pfaff Ambition 1.5.

I am in complete love with it. It has a ridiculous amount of stitches, which I have been testing out on lots of scraps of fabric. It has a touch screen that is used (amongest other things) to select stitches, adjust width and length, and even stitch in words and phrases.

There are lots of other neat gadgets on this machine. Like the button foot which actually sews a button onto fabric. And the button hole foot which automatically sews a button hole, simply by placing the button you are using at the end of the foot, it senses the button diameter and sews a button hole to the perfect matching size! Or the needle down button which makes the needle always finish every stitch in the down position, making it easy to pivot fabric around corners (such as in quilting). Or the automatic beep when it senses your bobbin is running low! Or the securing stitch button, which stitches a couple of securing stitches at the beginning and end of your stitching. No more reverse sewing here.

The machine can also quilt, which is really exciting. I had tried machine quilting on my old machine, but as it only had bottom feeders it would always end in a mess. This machine has top feed dogs too which makes quilting much neater. There are even a few "antique" quilting stitches to choose from which gives the illusion of hand quilting. Love it.

And because I couldn't snap a photo of myself using the machine, here is a photo of a random chick using a Pfaff Ambition 1.5...

Watch those fingers under that needle!

So I am officially in total love with this machine, and have been very tempted to take a day off work just to play with it. But I haven't. I've been good. Can't promise the housework will get done tomorrow though...

This makes turning 27 just a little bit easier ;-)

Sam xox

Un personne, un weekend.

My weekend was lovely. I had the house to myself and had absolutely no plans. Here's what I did with all my free time...

~ The housework got done ~

~ The washing was put out to dry ~

* I did not make this quilt.

~ Some magazines were borrowed from the library ~

~ An old woolen picnic blanket found a new home ~

~ The most amazing vintage store was discovered ~

~ Some vintage items may have been brought home from said store ~

~ Spring sewing preparations were made ~

~ Spring sewing began ~

* * * * * * *

I also did an 11km walk and a spot of gardening. I am now feeling very refreshed and don't want to go back to work tomorrow.

How was your weekend?

Sam xox

Scalloped jacket and skirt progress.

I realised the other day that I haven't given much of an update on the progress of this pattern being sewn together...

I was planning on having this outfit sewn up ready to wear during my trip to Melbourne this weekend. Unfortunately, I procrastinated too long on the lining and it will just not be ready in time.

A month ago I made a muslin of both the jacket and skirt. The skirt fit perfectly, even though the pattern size was smaller than my measurements (does this ever happen to you when using vintage patterns?). The jacket muslin worked well, but I still need to perfect the scalloped edges (does anyone know of any good websites that give tutorials on sewing scallops neatly? Mine are just not sitting right).

This is the gabardine fabric I purchased to make View 1:

It is so luxuriously soft that I am sure it will break my heart a little to cut into it!

I have been waiting patiently for the perfect lining fabric to find me. As you know I love Liberty of London's Tana Lawn, and really preferred this for the lining. But after almost two months spent searching ebay I couldn't find the perfect fabric. That is, until I found this pink Betsy...

I was instantly in love, and just had to bide my time for the right amount to be listed on ebay for a reasonable price. I watched 4 auctions end before I finally won this fabric. My heart was set on it but I just wasn't prepared to pay too much for it, because it was lining after all.

Pink Betsy arrived in the post yesterday and it is perfect. I am hoping that there will be enough left over after lining the jacket to make a simple top to make the suit complete.

Hope you all have a lovely weekend!

Sam xox

My Walk Away dress - Butterick 6015.

As promised here are some photos I took this weekend of my Walk Away dress!

I whipped this dress up in a couple of hours last weekend, but had to wait for a sunny day to take some photos. This dress was very easy to make. I have the reproduction pattern so it has the various sizes on the pattern pieces, which was useful for me, as I have a pear-shaped body. I was able to cut the bust to one size, and then the waist and hips in a larger size.

There has been a lot of hating towards this pattern, the general consensus online seems to be that it has no shape and looks like a large apron/hospital gown. I totally disagree. I think (for my shape at least) that it turned out to be super cute and is a perfect dress for our warm Australian summers. I do think though that the success of the dress relies on good fabric pattern choice, and the correct contrast bias binding - otherwise I do see how it could end up looking like the wearer was disappearing beneath 4 meters of fabric!

I wore this dress out today, visiting a cafe and doing a bit of shopping, and three people complimented me on the dress! That never happens when I wear the clothes I make - so for me this dress was a success :-)

I teamed the dress with Casey's latest romantic Edwardian updo. This was my first attempt at the hairstyle and I think its a cute look.

Positives for this pattern:

* The pattern fitted my body perfectly and required no altering.

* The bias binding was very easy to do and finished off the sides nicely.

* Sewing in snaps and button fastenings was a nice change from the usual zipper insertion.

Negatives for this pattern:

* It requires 4 meters of fabric, so this is probably a pattern I will only make again if I find some fabric on sale.

Have any of you ever made this pattern? Would love a link to see your version :-)

Sam xox

Oh Etsy you bad thing.

My latest Etsy purchases (a 30% off sale was too good to refuse).

~ I think these blouses are just divine. I especially love the collarless blouses ~

~ I absolutely love the cross-over collar attachment for the jacket (view 3) ~

~ Not sure how this will translate on my figure, but I will try ~

~ A $2.50 skirt pattern - everyone needs one right? ~

~ And for something completely different... a very sweet pattern book ~

A big shout out to Yours Lovely, the Etsy store I purchased these from.

Have you found anything awesome on Etsy lately?

Sam xox

Vintage knitted skirt.

What a lovely craft day! I spent time at Mill's place doing some sewing while she continued working on her vintage knitted skirt. This time I actually took some photos! Here is a photo of Mill's awesome woolen knitted skirt thus far...

Isn't she clever? She is following a vintage knitting pattern and is using circular needles. In the photo above Mill is holding the skirt the right way up, so the top bit actually has elastic knitted into it, to form the waist. The main part of the skirt is made up of thin vertical grey lines and at the bottom will be a number of star bursts then the hem.

The skirt is turning out to be really beautiful. The wool she is using is 100% and is beautifully warm. Mill is planning on lining the skirt to prevent it stretching when worn, and at the rate she is knitting, she might be wearing this beauty by the end of the month!

~ Mill baked some orange biscuits for us to have for morning tea ~

~ Recognise the bag Miss P? ~

I spent today making a muslin for my Simplicity 7032 scalloped jacket and skirt pattern. I have some beautiful pink gabardine fabric to make it from, but I wanted to be sure it would fit before I cut into my good stuff.

I made a muslin of both the skirt and top. The pattern itself is for a 34" Bust, which I am up top, but my bottom half measurements were larger than those printed on the envelop. Turned out though, the skirt fitted brilliantly! I am excited about this because it means I now have a vintage a-line skirt pattern that needs no modifying.

The jacket was easy to sew together. The scalloped edge was a bit tricky, and it didn't sit quite right. I have a feeling this was more due to the calico I was using than the pattern itself. But the jacket did fit nicely, and I am so excited to start cutting out the 'real thing' this week.

If the pink is a success, I might make another in royal blue... or red!

~ A lunch fit for ladies ~

In other news, to commemorate the end of daylight savings and the beginning of the cooler months, I had my hair dyed from blond back dark dark brown. I keep seeing bits of my hair on my shoulder and thinking "whats that?!" then I realise it's my hair... I am sure I will be used to it in a few days.

Sam xox

The universal language of sewing... almost.

I find it very exciting to discover, with the help of the internet, some wonderful sewing blogs written by fellow sewers in languages other than English. I love seeing their photos and admiring their different styles, and with the help of google translator I can most often understand the main points of the blog post.

Tonight though, I have to say google translator let me down. I was trying to read a blog about a sewn jacket, and this is what google gave me in English:

"...but it sounded a bit like more like a new species of choice but something you had on it, and say the woman who wants to associate himself with a whale?Apart from that, everything is great!"

After spending minutes re-reading the post and studying the pictures, I still cannot work out what was said...

Hopefully the weather will be kind this weekend and I can show you my new blouse!

Sam xox

Sew retro.

I have been accepted as a contributor to the Sew Retro blog!

If you haven't yet been to the Sew Retro blog, you simply must visit. It is a blog full of incredibly talented sewers and inspiring vintage lovers - I am thrilled to be a part of it! I just published my first post :-)

In other news, I un-picked all the lower side seams of the pink dress I thrifted. I restitched them with a very scant seam allowance, and would you believe it now fits me perfectly! Hip hip hooray for thrifty modifications! $2 always makes a girl smile too.

Sam xox

What's the value.

I have been doing a lot of ‘searching’ on Etsy lately. An act not motivated by shopping, but by the desire to learn more about vintage styles throughout the decades. And I think sewing patterns really are a good place to start this sort of 'through the decades' research.

When vintage sewing patterns were first printed, they were current for the era. The older pattern envelopes feature illustrations by artists - impressions of the finished garments. The artists interpreted not only the silhouette of the pattern, but also what the fabric colour or print might be if made at that time. The artists also included the hairstyle fashions current to the era on their garment models. Vintage patterns therefore provide great insight for the would-be vintage sewer who not only wants to sew with a vintage pattern, but emulate an outfit that would have passed as fashionable for the time.

Through my ‘research’ however, I have been struck by the significant differences in the pricing of vintage patterns. I can understand a bit of a difference in price due to the condition of the pattern pieces/envelope, but it appeared to stretch further than this. I began to ask myself “how is the value of a vintage pattern calculated by sellers?”

It seems to me that a lot of factors come into play when deciding on the value of a vintage pattern. From my searching I can conclude there are many factors that are considered before a vintage pattern is priced:

Condition – This seems the most obvious. Consider the condition of the pattern. Is the envelope in one piece? Is there yellowing on the envelope? Are all the pattern pieces included? Is the pattern cut or uncut? Condition is key to the value of a pattern.

Age – How old the pattern is does influence the price. As with most vintage pieces, older patterns are priced higher than newer ones.

Era – The price of a pattern can depend on the era the pattern was published. Many vintage styles/eras often come into vogue and thus these original patterns can demand a higher price.

Rarity – How many copies were sold? Was the pattern produced by a large company or by a smaller one? Does the company still exist? Did the company produce a lot of this pattern or was it printed for a limited time? Has the pattern been reprinted recently (think the ‘Vintage Vogue’ range).

Popularity – Patterns that were very popular at the time of print, or ones that have become popular now, also carry a competitive price (for example, the Walk Away Dress by Butterick is a pattern that is in as much demand these days as it was when it was first printed in 1952).

Size – From my searching, the vintage dress patterns on Etsy mostly range within the 32"-38"bust size. Sizes either side of this are often rarer and appear to be a little bit more expensive.

Garment type – What the pattern designed to make also influences the price. Etsy appears to be heavily saturated with vintage dress patterns at the moment, some you can pick up for only a couple of dollars. Other items, like vintage shorts and blouses, are a bit harder to find and carry a price tag that reflects this.

Phew! What a post. So glad to write about something with a bit of sewing meat to it, I feel like all I have done lately is post photos of my projects!

On a side note - all the patterns pictured in this post are available from Etsy seller Savage Spider. Please be clear that I am in no way affiliated with Savage Spider, I only came across their pattern collection during my 'research' and was impressed with their variety of patterns and their reasonable prices.

Last but not least, I just couldn't resist including this cute pattern in my post...

I wish I had that many dogs to cuddle!

Sam xox