Burda Style tracing paper.

I have one of those compulsive personalities that wants needs everything to be in order. For dressmaking this means I spend the first half an hour of any project tracing out the patterns onto paper so that the original is not damaged or cut into in the cutting out process. Yes this takes me time, but it means that my patterns stay all neat and perfect. Plus, if I want to sew the same pattern later as a gift for someone, I still have all the sizes to choose from.

Swedish tracing paper, freezer paper, and interfacing have all been tried as a copy source, however none of these have ever worked for me properly. Some were bulky, some creased badly, and some the marker completely rubbed off! My strategy wasn't working.

Whilst lamenting this to a sewing friend the other day, she pulled out some Burda Style tracing paper she had bought from Spotlight recently, and suggested it might solve my dilemma. How had I not seen this before?!? How I spent all those years tracing out my patterns on sub standard stationary is now unfathomable. I rushed to Spotlight and bought three packets.

Ladies and gentlemen, meet my new Burda Style tissue paper...

I have given the paper a test run on my Colette Patterns Sencha blouse, and it traced out perfectly. I used an Artline marker pen to trace the pattern, and it didn't even smudge a bit. The tissue paper itself is lightweight and folds up as thinly as regular pattern tissue does.

So if you're a pattern tracer like me, and can't find this Burda Style tracing paper at your local sewing supplies store, I found one here on ebay for you :-)

Sam xox

Liberty Sorbetto dress.

This dress is the result of cross-inspiration. 

A Liberty fabric dress.

And Alys Fowler.

Two years ago I came across an Ilana Kohn dress made from Liberty fabric, and knew one day I would try and make one for myself. Once I set up my Pintrest account I saved the dress there too just so I wouldn't forget about it. I loved the simplicity of the dress, the bias binding and the curved hemline. I imagined it would be so perfectly comfortable to wear during our hot summer months.

This year I was also inspired by the dresses Alys Fowler wears in her BBC series The Edible Garden. Her knowledge of permaculture and indubitable love for her garden inspired me on my gardening endeavours, while her offbeat gardening attire inspired my seamstress within.

I drafted the perfect gardening dress today using Colette Pattern's Sorbetto as my starting block. I deleted the centre front pleat and lengthened the top by about 14 inches, taking into account my hip measurements and adding width to the pattern accordingly. I also lowered the front neckline about an inch. I made a wearable muslin first using the brightly coloured floral fabric I blogged about yesterday. I discovered the wearable muslin had a few mistakes. I had not removed enough of the pleat section so my darts did not reach the right position on my bust. Also, I added three pin tucks to the centre front neck line which did not look that great. The first dress will be kept for sleepwear in the summer months, because it is cute, but a little shabby and not something I would be confident to wear out in public.

For the second pattern draft I removed more from the front pleat, added half an inch to either side hips, shortened the length to sit above my knees and decided not sew the pin tucks. I sewed this draft up in the blue mock Liberty and it turned out so much nicer!

~ It was 14oC and raining for these photos - so so cold! ~

I drafted the hem line slightly curved, which I think is a nice touch. The bias binding works well with Lawn fabrics because it gives the soft fabric some structure and shape. This dress took be no more than one hour to make!

This dress is going to look so cute in a Liberty Tana Lawn! The only trouble will be deciding what fabric to sew it up in.

Any suggestions Liberty fans???

Sam xox

Sewing plans afoot.

I have had visions of Spring sewing dancing around my head for almost two weeks now. Tasia recently launching her beautiful blouse and shorts patterns only increase my anticipation for the coming Spring. Almost two years ago I came across a dress made from Liberty fabric that looked simple enough to make. I plan on drafting one similar using the Sorbetto pattern as my starting block, then altering it to suit my vision.

Before I rushed off and ordered my Liberty fabric, I first needed to make a wearable muslin from substantially less pricey fabric, to ensure I have the fit just right. I knew that Spotlight sells imitation Liberty (Japanese lawn) for $15 per metre. Luckily for me, two of the three fabrics I ended up buying were on sale for $5 per meter, so I bought enough to make two dresses and a Sorbetto top for work. I also got some bias binding to match.

 It was interesting to see the change in this fabric when matched with various colours of bias binding.

In the end I chose the pale brown as I think it calms the fabric down.

 I paid full price for this Japanese Lawn, so this will be made into the 'proper' dress.

At $5 per meter, this will be my wearable muslin. Hopefully it won't look to gaudy when finished!

This is a style of print I don't often wear (I am a floral's girl at heart), but I think it should look good made into a Sorbetto and worn for work.

Now you know what I'll be doing tomorrow!

Sam xox